This is a collective post of all the posts for my Auxiliary Light Project.
Part 1
In this post I put the lights on the roof rack. The weather played along and it was the only day this week I could get out there. Last weekend was spent getting Erica and Brian’s house moved. Erica remembered I drove M54 5 ton trucks in the Marine Corps Reserve.
So I got to drive the U-Haul home. The first two hours was driving with the wind on the front right corner with a wicked wind blowing me all over the road with the incredibly vague steering. I also enjoyed a crosswind with that vibrated the left mirror and creating a loud noise. It was brutal.
We got them all load and unloaded in two days. That took a toll on this old man, but I was happy we got it all done.
So on to the lights…
I started with a template so I could get the holes drilled correctly that needed a slight adjustment for the power wire. Once I got them on the roof rack, I realized the power wires were going to need to be secured and out of the way.
I found some metal clips that were designed to hold a tablecloth on to a picnic table. After I broke 4 drill bits trying to drill hole in them, I gave up and went to the hardware store to buy some. On the way I realized the steel was probably spring steel. So, drilling a hole was probably a folly in itself.
The bracket got installed and then I went on to wiring. Nothing special here. I watched a Simon Fordman YouTube video where he soldered his wiring. I decided that would be how I did it. What I learned is I need a wider variety of heat shrink. I had several of the right diameters but not in the length I needed.
What’s next? I’m glad you asked. I need to wire in the switches and relays. This means I need to determine what the box is going to look like. I also need to decide what I’m going to make the inside out of, MDF? plywood? paper mâché? the choices are endless!!!
Part 2
I finished up the soldering on the lights. I didn’t finish one last weekend. I should have filmed it because it was the best connection of the three. Its sad how you lose skills when you don’t use them. Add soldering to the list of perishable skills…
- Dancing
- Running
- Bending over at the waist
- Patience
- Firearms accuracy
- Drinking all day and waking up the next day like nothing happened
- (New) Soldering
That’s most of my list… I’m sure “cognitive skills” and “remembering why I walked into a room” will be added soon but for now let’s go with these.
I got the wires routed along the roof rack. I bought some ridiculously over designed zip ties. I used those along the rack. I’m not worried about the wires moving.
I was able to run the wires around the rain gutter and into one of the holes in the D pillar that would have been used to hold the beauty panel on. I’m not worried about it going anywhere because the wires are right up against it.
I got the D pillar beauty panel secured and installed the interior trim piece as well. I now have to get connectors and wire and make jumpers for the relays and plan my wiring panel. At this point I’m thinking a piece of wood mounted to the interior back. It would be covered by the box that will be the location of the light switches and the sub woofer.
There will be additional power needs back there. I have a ridiculous list of needs for the rear.
Interior lights, charging batteries for a drone and cameras and flash lights…. Its a ridiculous list and I should probably print it and stick up somewhere so I am always thinking about it when I’m planning.
That’s all for this week. Like and subscribe if you watch the video. Thanks for reading and Happy Rovering.
Part 3
In this video I talk about my terrible planning skills. I also mount the relays on my board for the auxiliary lights on the roof rack for my Range Rover Classic Overland rig.
Part 4
In this video I talk about my terrible planning skills. I also mount the relays on my board for the auxiliary lights on the roof rack for my Range Rover Classic Overland rig.
Part 5
In this video I discuss my windshield issue, deal with a missing Amazon order, and finish soldering the diodes for the auxiliary lights on the roof rack for my Range Rover Classic Overland rig.
Details About “Kit and Kaboodle”
Origin: The phrase dates back to around 1870, with earlier iterations including “kit and boodle” or “kit and cargo” in the 1840s/50s. It is believed to have originated from “kit” (a collection of tools/items) and “boodle” (a, Dutch-derived, word for a group or property).
Russ T Mettle YouTube https://www.youtube.com/@russtmettle
Part 6
In this video I start the cabinets to house the switching board for my lights on my Range Rover Classic Overland rig. I also managed to cut through the handle on my table. Thankfully, I was able to repair it with a little welding.
There were some other issues but I dealt with them off camera. Speaking of cameras, this camera is REALLY pissing me off. I think I’ll be looking for a new camera in the coming year. One that doesn’t overheat and is easy to turn on and off.
I made the hard decisions to skip the subwoofer for now. The size of the one I chose would have taken up the entire space behind the cabinet. It was the Kenwood Excelon P-XW804B.
The search is on….
Part 7
Finishing up the carpentry. No one called me out for spelling it wrong in Part 6.
Part 8
In this part I test my circuit to make sure it does what I planned. Spoiler alert it does. I also fix the bracket by welding a nut on to the brackets. I screwed up getting the fabric to cover the box. I’ll have to make a daytime run to get it so I can wrap this project up.
Part 9
In this video I move yet another step closer to wrapping up the switching board for my lights on my Range Rover Classic Overland rig. All I need is to cover it with fabric and finish out the wiring and mounting of the switch.
Part 10
In this video I wrap up the switching board for my lights on my Range Rover Classic Overland rig. I only burned both index fingers and started a small fire. About normal, and I’ll probably recover.
Like and subscribe. Thanks for reading and Happy Rovering.
