Category: rust

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Random Next Jobs on my Range Rover Classic Overland Rig Part 3 (Post #717) 9/7/2025

This week I continued the “odd jobs” on the Classic. These have been piling up as I moved through the truck cutting out rust and welding new patches, grinding away rust, killing spiders, painting, and planning. Would it have been prudent to have written these tasks down, absolutely. Did I write any of them down, not a one.

I’m sure I’ll be encountering them more and more as I start running wiring for the interior. As I start installing the trim and the other interior bits I’m sure there will be dozens of these jobs.

I got the rear seat belt mounts reinstalled. That took a little clever thought to run a string up through the holes and pulling the bracket into place. This required a few trips back and forth under the truck. That will wear an old man out quickly. I installed the rivets so I’ll be able to use those points for a seat belt AND to lock down racks or gear and the bed/tray mechanism that I’ve been planning.

I also tackled the rust on the front differential. It is really crusty. There is no risk of if rusting through. The bloody thing is 1/2 an inch thick.

I got a sprayer and applied some rust converter liberally. I’ll check it this week after work to see how it did.

I also bought a spray attachment to assist in cleaning the bottom of the truck off. You’ll see a LOT of oil covered surfaces and I’ll have to start chasing down where that is coming from. I have some ideas but it will need to be CLEAN before I start finding the leaks and weeps.

Like and subscribe.

May the wind take your troubles away and Happy Rovering.

https://youtu.be/6fJd5ANY9vU
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Random Next Jobs on my Range Rover Classic Overland Rig Part 2 (Post #716) 8/31/2025

The first thing we did this weekend was drive up and surprise Lucas by taking him to his first pro football game. It was my first too, but we made it all about him. He had a great time.

In this post I worked on the footwell and the rust issues that may come up from melting off the stone chip/bedliner material with my welding. I got underneath and scraped off as much as I could reach with all the exhaust and drive shafts in the way. I also now realize there is a fair amount of leaking oil on this beast.

I found some transmission fluid, obviously engine oil, and I saw some antifreeze too. These are all leaks I can list along with my power steering which is weeping from the lower seal. All very annoying. Some we can fix. Some we will probably not fix. Engine oil could be coming from the valve covers which I think need sorting. Antifreeze is likely coming from one of the heater hoses on top the engine. All of those should probably be replaced based on age alone.

I also used some of the fancy zip ties to lock some stuff down. That was very satisfying. There is actually only one size in the bag and they were too small for some of the holes.

I also found some rust. “NO, how is this possible!!!” you might say. The front differential is really rusty. Flakey rusty. So that will need to be cleaned up and coated in rust converter. Then painted. The other rust I found was on the tube that houses the bonnet release (hood release to my fellow Americans). It looked terrible. I got the wire wheel out and got it knocked down to bare metal. I was pretty proud of myself for not wire wheeling my fingers.

I got it coated in rust converter and will get it painted next weekend. I still have several additional jobs to do. It’s labor day weekend so I plan to spend some quality time out there.

That’s about it for this week. No video last week because I had trouble getting the video to build and by the time it was built it was the middle of the week. So I slotted it for later.

Thanks for reading, like and subscribe, and may the wind take your troubles away.

Happy Rovering.

https://youtu.be/ERO8ZXFW5Q4
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Installing Shocks on my Range Rover Classic Overland Rig (Post #710) 7/14/2025

In this episode I install some shocks on the old Range Rover Classic. I went for the basic shocks this time. Ordering these from Atlantic British resulted in Boge brand shocks for the front and Girling for the back. The item should have been four from Boge, but I guess they didn’t have the stock and swap the parts for what they did have.

I went about installing them and guess what I found??? RUST. I know, you are shocked, but it’s true. The cups that hold the rubber bushings were very rusty. I cleaned them up the best I could and painted them with Rust Inhibitor paint.

I have no fantasy in my mind that this will stop the rust, but it did FEEL good to try. Also the nuts were VERY corroded and were quite a chore to remove. In order for me to not go through that again, I added some anti-seize goo to the thread parts of the shock. It won’t affect the nuts staying in place because they are nylocs.

The install went about as I expected. I did one front and one back for the video. I’ll do the other half next week and start looking at all the parts that have to come off to replace the bushings.

Thanks for reading, like and subscribe if you watch the attached video, and Happy Rovering.

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Welding Completed on the Floor Panel on my Range Rover Classic Overland Rig (Post #696) 3/23/2025

In this episode, I manage to get some good welds. Together with some bolts, I think the floor bed is installed!!!!!

Now I need to clean up the welds and cover the steel in some primer and paint. You know, to prevent rust, wink, wink.

I know this will rust again, I’m just hoping by the time it does, I’m on to another vehicle.

Thanks for reading and Happy Rovering.

https://youtu.be/uMbmCFAEUi8
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Hotter Welds for the Floor Panel on my Range Rover Classic Overland Rig (Post #695) 3/16/2025

Yeah, these welds go to SEVEN. As Nigel Tufnel of the legendary band, Spinal Tap, says, “…but these go to eleven.” I turned up the voltage on my welder to get better welds.

I started with setting 4 wire speed and C voltage on my Lincoln Pro Mig 180 welder. Those welds did not hold. Drilling them out ate two drill bits and caused me to sharpen one of them twice during this ordeal.

So I turned it up to 7 D. Why the wire speed needed to be so much faster at this level of voltage is till a mystery to me, but hey, whatever works.

Hopefully these work. I am going to reinforce the welding with some bolts just to make sure any “flexing” of the body doesn’t sound like I just cracked the Big White Bus in half, when those weld break free. It will give me some piece of mind too that the floor bed will not go anywhere with all my gear strapped to it.

I also sorted out that I had my braces on wrong. This was why the bed was bulging in the middle. I don’t know how many times I went through how those needed to be installed and I still got them wrong. They are on correctly now and the bed panel fits SO much better.

That’s about all. I really appreciate two of my viewers who pointed out that the welds were not penetrating.

Wallace, who just recently acquired a Range Rover Classic and will be starting on his restoration at some point in 2025. And…

Trevor from Tumbleweed Garage [YouTube channel] who is restoring a Willys Pickup. He is doing a great job and I love watching how his mind works. He does a lot without any fancy tools, proving once again you don’t need to spend a king’s ransom to play with cars in your garage.

Thanks for reading and Happy Rovering.

https://youtu.be/17mumd38By8
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Floor Support Beams on my Range Rover Classic (Post #691) 2/17/2025

In this post I pose a question, “Why not bolt those supports on?!?”

I have the holes for bolts. I either have to weld those holes up or use them to mount the supports. It’s only a few bolts to get the beams attached. Bolted or welded I have the same result.

So I decided to bolt them on. I went through my stash of stainless bolts. You KNOW those bolts would have to stainless as do the nyloc nuts and the fender washers. So I needed a run to the hardware store. I had a coupon for 20% off on $50(US) so…let’s go nuts…I mean nuts and bolts.

I am now ready to mount those beams. I managed to get the shop up to 57 degrees Fahrenheit so I sprayed some primer on the bare metal. I then decided I needed to move the beams and the floor pan into the sunroom in the house. It is climate controlled and the paint will cure more effectively if the temp is above 60F.

I also sprayed bedliner on the floor pan too. This rubberized material will help form a water tight water resistant mount once I get this all bolted up. I’m feeling pretty pump about it actually.

The next episode will have the beams installed and mounted in the Range Rover to assure the fit is right and then to weld the pan in place.

Thanks for reading and Happy Rovering. Like and subscribe. I really appreciate it.

https://youtu.be/8bUl7TqlNJk
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