Getting Closer (Post #204) 9/17/2010

I’m getting close to finishing the brake disc swap on the front of the Range Rover. I did have two disappointments though. With the brakes.

The brake caliper (ka-liper if you are German) on the right front had to be replaced. I attempted to rebuild them in the Restoration Part Uno. No matter how much effort I gave it I could not make the right front stop leaking. I’m guessing the bits were just too worn out. In any event, I replaced it with a new one. I’m pretty sure it came from Atlantic British.

So as I’m pulling the calipers off and the brake pads out, out falls one of the outer retainer rings for one of the pistons. I’m like, “WHAT THE HELL? Where did that come from?” Just then the brake pad in my hand separated. The asbestos bit came loose from the metal backing plate. So again I’m like, “WHAT THE HELL?”

I can’t tell you how disappointed I was. First that I didn’t keep my receipts/invoices. Second that a new part failed like that. Thirdly, I’m wondering if the word QUALITY is even in some people’s dictionaries.

So I take a look at the ring, yep, it was rusted all to hell. I then took it over to the bench grinder and polished off the rust the best I could. I got the Dremel out and put a mini wire wheel on it and got the inside bit rust-free as well. Then I needed to figure out a way to get it pressed back in.

I put the ring in place and using the metal backing plate and a large C and pressed it in. It is the dust seal for that caliper cylinder so I’m confident it will be okay. But seriously, what is going on? I’ve never seen a brake pad fail like that. I’ve heard of it, but never seen it.

With that little side project complete I had totally spent myself and gave up for the day. For the day I got the left front brake disc done and totally re-greased the bearings. I broke yet another tool on this part of the project.

I am not what people would call a “muscle man”. My entire life I’ve been cursed with exceptionally long arms and making those puppies muscular escaped me. I think I can wrench with the best of them but when it gets to stuck I rely on the levers and cheater pipes like anyone would. So I’m breaking the bolts loose on the brake disc and snap, I broke a socket. It’s a Craftsman and if they honor their warranty I’ll be bringing home a sack full of tools from this rebuild.

Sitting in my sister’s lap 1967 Guam, USA  

So far, a standard screwdriver, two punches, and a 16mm 1/2 inch drive socket have sacrificed themselves on the alter of the Range Rover gods. I’ve got to get them all together and take them down to Sears and get replacements. The socket was bought while we were on Guam to work on the Volkswagon type 2. So it’s been to Guam and back to Oklahoma. In its life it has circumnavigated the globe and is likely older than 90% of the people working at our Sears today. But I’m going to make them replace it.

So this weekend is finishing the right front disc brake and replacing the brake fluid reservoir and hopefully bleeding the brakes. Then its on to the viscous coupling! Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy.

Thanks for reading and Happy Rovering.

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly (Post #193) 8/12/2010

[Queue the theme song]
The Good, I started on the rear brakes last night.
The Bad, I can’t finish the project.
The Ugly, I found a broken axle half shaft.

As you can see in this picture the rear brakes on the Range Rover are looking pretty knackered. I love that word “knackered”. In this context I’m using the British and Irish slang form. But it works as well for me on the British/Australasian level too. For when I saw the broken half shaft I translated it into American English and that was one of the words I used do describe my disappointment. RovErica, while driving her UN-air conditioned Taurus, is famous for her saying, “Dad it is hot as balls in my car.” It was definitely “hot as balls” in the garage while I was working on this project. The temperature was still above 95F when the sun started going down. Considering all this, knackered works on many levels.

 
On the final few drives in the Rover, the brakes seemed to be seized at least on the left rear side. And the rust is simply annoying. I normally don’t swap the brake discs when I do a brake job, and as you can see they have probably NEVER been replaced in this Rover’s life. The groove or lip on the edge of the disc was getting pretty deep so it was time for some new discs.

I bought a full set of discs and decided, like all the new items I put on the Rover, to limit the rust the best I can. I decided that a coat of acid etching primer would be just the thing. You might ask, “Will it work?” Who knows, but I feel better about them being painted.

So I took the new brake discs and painted them with the primer. It was not my intention to paint the actual braking surface but through my laziness efforts and impatience some healthy overspray, I got paint on the braking surface. I don’t think it matters for when the brake pads start making contact there won’t be much paint there after a few stops.

After I had put the first coat of paint on the discs I noticed an irregularity on one of the front discs.

After checking with several sources (JagGuy and The Evil German Dude) it was determined this was done to balance that disc. I had seen this before, but wanted to make sure.

Swapping the discs is a pretty straight forward job. You remove the caliper, or as EGD says the “ka-LIPer” (I wish I had an audio file of him saying that for you). This requires the brake lines on the rear brakes to be removed. So have a catch pan available or you will have a huge mess. The brake lines are “hard piped” as in not flexible at the caliper. The flexible part of the brake line on the rear axle is in the center above the axle.

After you have the caliper off, it is time to remove the axle half shaft. That can be seen in this picture.

Five bolts and you are done.

Pro Tip: I used a breaker bar to hold the wheel in place as I broke the bolts lose. I also had to use a cheater pipe to extend the leverage of the socket and ratchet. I’m getting wimpier in my advanced age.

I used a large screw driver to slip between the axle half shaft cap and the hub. Once you break the seal it comes out easily. You then flatten out the keeper ring and remove the bearing nuts. These nuts are very large and I used the biggest channel locking pliers to get them started. They were not very tight in the first place but the grease made them very hard to work with.

Here is another “good” for this project. It is a good idea to replace stuff as you go through the vehicle you are working on. In this example the wheel bearings are in these hubs. I remember I had bought a wheel bearing replacement kit some time ago when RovErica reported some odd behavior and noise. From what she described I thought the bearings were going out. It turned out not to be the case and I had the kits still sitting on the shelf. My axles have 185,000 miles on them. So basically if you break something down this far, go ahead and replace the serviceable parts while your there, if your budget can afford it. I will store the old bearings “for good measure” as I believe they were not bad in the first place and will work in a pinch if necessary.

After you have the hub off it is time to remove the disc from the rest of the hub. This is done by removing the crown nuts that hold the anti-lock brake sensor ring.

And those thread shafts pass through the disc holding the hub to the disc. They are dual threaded. Both ends are threaded and this may cause you trouble when you attempt to take the crown nuts off. Be creative. Extra points are awarded to you for removing the ring if you have to deploy additional tools or techniques. Rovers North has a good picture of the ring and assembly and how it all fits together. Click on the picture to open their site for a complete parts list.

With a little persuasion gentle tap of a hammer the hub and the disc will separate. Reassemble in reverse order. If you have a bearing kit to install you will need to do that as well. If no, definitely renew the grease on the old bearings. I will post another entry when I put the new bearings back in.

Right now I’m debating if I’m going to bother sand blasting and painting the hub unit. I really want it all to be pretty and new so maybe perhaps.

Now on to the broken axle half shaft.

This crappy photo shows the sheared off end of my right rear axle shaft. After seeing this and an expletive laden rant a little disappointed cursing, it hit me, I will have to tear the differential apart. KNACKERS!

If we refer to the rule above, now would be a good time to put in a locking differential. But sadly the budget does not support it. What? You’ve never had the axles out of your Rover? Click here to see what a proper shaft should look like. In short, it depends on who you ask and what you are doing with your Rover.

IF we, that is you and I, were sitting in my garage having a Bodington’s the conversation might turn to 10 spline versus 24 spline axles at this point. Basically in mid-1993 Land Rover started using 24 spline axles instead of 10 spline. Are 24’s better than 10’s? There is a thread on RangeRovers.net in their forum. Check it out for wisdom on the subject.

So another phase of the project will be to assess the damage done and get the axle half shaft piece (or pieces) out of the differential. Gag.

As I posted in an earlier post, everything I touch generates two (2) more projects. At this pace I may never finish the restoration. I am trying to keep a positive outlook on everything, but Mrs. OkieRover is wondering how much this will all cost and when will it be done. As I told her, this is my “mid-life crisis motorcycle”.

I am respecting her wishes that I not buy a motorcycle. I’m hoping she realizes that this is my hobby and in her mind, is a lot safer than a motorcycle. Well, it’s a lot safer than ME BEING ON A MOTORCYCLE.

Thanks for reading and Happy Rovering.

Yep! Brake cylinder was leakin’ (Post #126) 1/19/2009

Not my exact one, but as close a picture as I could find
I changed the oil today on the Range Rover Classic. It was past due. I also gave her a run down the street. I was quickly harkened back to the days of my youth. The growl from the steering pump reminded me of my 1973 Ford Maverick Grabber. It was always leaking steering fluid. And once the pump was ruined it didn’t matter if you had fluid in it or not, it still growled. Why it never occurred to me to swap it out is still a mystery.

So I checked the reservoir and sure enough it was very, very low. I filled it up. I also checked the brake fluid reservoir. I could not believe how low it was. I had only noticed it puddling up on the drive way this week.

So I pulled her into the wife’s side of the garage and got the left (driver’s side) rear tire off. I proceeded to pull the caliper and this is what I found.

As you can see in the picture the seal has slipped out. The ring around the outside should sit flush to the caliper. This seal must have been leaking for quite awhile. The grime was pretty heavy.

I pulled the seal and cleaned the ring and groove for the seal with the wire wheel on the end of the Dremel tool. I also cleaned the outside of the caliper with some brake cleaner. I forgot how good this stuff was at removing paint and soon the acid etching gray I sprayed on there during the restore was coming off. So I blew everything off with the compressor to stop the mess. As I have done this job about a million times it was pretty easy. Actually I have only done this about 6 times. As with the last repair on the calipers I’m hoping the seal holds this time.

I buttoned everything up and gave her a test drive. She stopped when I pressed on the brake. So I have that going for me. I’ll let you know if it doesn’t hold.

February 20th, 2007 (Post #72)

February 20th, 2007


Kick Ass Buttons.
My good friend in Grand Junction made me some new buttons for the header page.
I think they are totally awesome. They look great and are better than any button I’ve ever had on any of my sites. Thanks Josh, I owe you big time.

I don’t know when it happened but I must have deleted my stat checking code. Ooops. So I put it back.

Restoring the Rangie.
I finished the brake caliper rebuild. I have the pictures on the camera but I don’t have the write up done yet. Maybe if I get some time this week I’ll put my thoughts on that down.

I installed the calipers on the left side of the Rangie and hooked up the lines. I had to get some new cotter pins for the reinstall. I teased the clerk at Ace Hardware, “What, no stainless?”

And she responded, “Yeah, we got stainless.”

I was a bit surprised so I bought them. So how anal do you have to get to put stainless steel cotter pins on the tie rod ends? I think I have a disease.

I’m trying to decide which project gets my attention next. The weather this week is great but the timing couldn’t be worse. We have a funeral tomorrow and family in town all week. Also RovErica’s softball team meeting is tonight. And Saturday is out as I have been asked to be in a movie production. Something to do with the Civil War. More on that later. So not only do I not have time to do my taxes, I don’t have time to work on my restoration.
Gaah!

Well there’s always next week I guess.

February 16th, 2007 (Post #71)

February 16th, 2007


A nice drive.
I took the Disco down to do some work for JagGuy in far Southwest Oklahoma. I wrote about it and posted it A Nice Drive.

Restoring the Rangie.
Started putting the calipers together. It’s pretty scary to me to think this work will be tested when I try to stop. The brake fluid is taking the Self Etching Primer off. I thought it wouldn’t. But I was wrong. I’m not sure how I’ll clean that up.

I have one of the swivel seals replaced and put all the way back together. I’m going to do the other side and try to photograph every step. Which there are many. But when I’m done I’ll have a complete tear down and reassemble of the hub to the swivel seal. Hopefully that will help someone out someday.

I also wrote up the Ice Storm of 2006.

Hope you enjoy the read.