I’ve always wanted to do this (Post #268) 10/7/2011

I’ve always wanted to do this.

TULSA, Oklahoma — People driving westbound on I-44 near the Lewis exit were warned to be on the lookout for zombies Thursday.

So far no zombies have been reported in the area. Nice touch on the end of that report.

That’s classic. Well played.

Thursday night I pulled the radiator out of the Range Rover Classic. As I reported to you last, the radiator has developed a leak. I knew it was leaking a bit around the fill port but it has since developed a crack to the inside of that and was leaking a decent amount of coolant. Also I was completely unable to remove the fill plug. My attempts jacked it up pretty good too. Brass just doesn’t hold up well. Perhaps some copper lube when it is reinstalled.

I reported also that there were no radiator repair shoppes in Norman, Oklahoma. So far to my knowledge I am correct. Jennings Garage advertises that they are a “radiator shop”. When I called them they said they stopped working on radiators and now only “swap them out”.

This lead me to speculate about the reasons these shops have gotten more scarce. I am betting a dollar on some sort of regulation, either the E.P.A. or some other. I’m sure the vat of acid and associated chemicals must be a nightmare of paper work for a small shop. I will ask Osborn’s Radiator Shop today when I stop by and drop off my radiator.

The removal reminded me that I wanted to swap my mechanical fan for a set of electric ones. My research has found that a late 1990’s model Ford Crown Victoria’s fan assembly works. Now I need to find one. I will first get some measurements and then go shopping at the Pull-A-Part or the Ford “breakers” (salvage) yards in Oklahoma City.

Apparently I can buy a new one in the range of 95 – 150$(US) plus shipping. I’m hoping the breakers yard will part with one for less than 50$(US).

I’m glad I found this detailed measurement drawing. I am skeptical that it will fit. But I’m willing to try anything once. The associated fuel savings is reported at 2-3 miles per gallon. Even if it is one mile per gallon I think it is worth it.

I’ll post some pictures of the damage next week along with some detailed measurements.

Thanks for reading and Happy Rovering. Oh…and BOOMER SOONER! Beat Texas!

High/Low Range Solenoid Problem (Post #213) 10/26/2010

A common failure on the Range Rover Classic is the high/low range shift solenoid. This system often fails and leaves your Range Rover stuck in high range.

My Classic has had it’s lever stuck this way for 5 years. And in those five years, I’ve needed low range at least once each year since it happened. The reasons are all the same, keeping myself from getting stuck. When I got stuck behind my new house in 2005, I’d like to believe if I had low range then I would not have gotten stuck. Last year during the Christmas Eve Snowpocalypse I needed the low range to help extract the my oldests kid’s Ford Explorer 4×4, some dumb kids dressed in shorts, hoodies, and flip flops (seriously) that got stuck in a snow drift at the entrance to our neighborhood, and when my friend used the LWB to pull his Jeep out of a snow drift a few days later after he got stuck trying to pull a car out.

In every example except the first, low range was not needed. I wonder if it would have mattered anyway. The Range Rover was able to pull everyone out with only the front axle, due to the failed drive shaft and busted viscous coupling. Imagine how capable the Classic would have been with both axles working correctly!

So with that a common fix is to remove the solenoid and to remove the pin that holds the lever stuck in high. I know I could have investigated all the parts that caused it to fail. But I didn’t want to spend the time to find the gremlin. It is easy enough to just disable the SAFETY DEVICE.

You must know at this point you are removing the device that prevents you from ACCIDENTALLY putting your transfer case into low range if you are exceeding any of the conditions that are installed to prevent that from happening. This shouldn’t be a problem. I know you have to basically be sitting still, in neutral before you can move the lever to low.

I lined up my tools to remove the solenoid and investigate how to disable it. I got my socket set out and a hex head bit to remove the two bolts holding the solenoid to the shifting lever.

Once again these were difficult to get broke free. The years of water and corrosion have basically welded the bolts in place. After they broke free I pulled the solenoid out and had a look at it.

That’s the pin that prevents a lever located on the bottom of the shift lever from moving “forward” to the low range. To get to the mechanism you have to remove the silicone bathroom caulk…wait what? Yeah, bathroom caulk, They filled the back side of the solenoid frame with caulk.

You can see in the picture with some of the caulk removed that the unit is not exactly water tight. I wonder how many of these failed before the factory started sealing them with bathroom caulk? I wonder which engineer got a bonus for his simple solution to this problem?

Head Engineer: “These solenoids are failing at an alarming rate from water ingression.”
Lesser Engineer: “I have an idea. Last night I was working in the loo and I was sealing the toilet at the base with caulking. How about we just fill the backside with silicone bathroom caulk. That should buy us at least three years. At that point the warranty will be void.”
Head Engineer: “Genius! Let’s head down to the pub to celebrate!”
Lesser Engineer: “But sir, it’s only 9:03 am.”
Head Engineer: “What’s your point?”

I think you get MY point. So you get the C clip pliers out and with the help of a small screw driver you remove the clip and remove the electrical bits from the casing.

All that’s left is cutting the pin off. No biggy. With the pin cut off it’s time to get it all reassembled and to have a couple of rum and cokes and a nice Arturo Fuente cigar while you wait for the bathroom caulk to set up.

Actually I did mine, got drunk and went to bed.

So why did you re-caulk it if you just destroyed it’s ability to do its job? Well I’m not exactly sure how to answer that. It seemed like the thing to do at the time. Hell, using bathroom caulk on a brand new 50,000$(US) Range Rover with Mediterranean Poplar wood accents is just redneck enough to make it into the Redneck Repair Hall of Fame.

Thanks for reading and Happy Rovering.

Helping others (Post #165) 1/17/2010

On Saturday I just so happened to find myself at JagGuy’s shop in OKC. The place was a flurry of activity. JagGuy had a tire service over to break down 10 of his M35 tires. It reminded me of my days in the Marine Corps as an ammo truck driver/artilleryman. These are the split rim design and are a real bear to break down when they have sat unused. The rust really builds up. If you don’t think rust affects rubber I challenge you to break down one these tires. Rust is brutal. A mountain of a fellow showed up and over the course of a few hours had them broke down using a tire sledge and two pry bars. Serious hard work.

As I have mentioned before, JagGuy is buying the surplus M35 trucks and then effectively bobbing them. He is starting to really get them looking good. His partner in crime Rogers was also busy with Jaguar club stuff and had people in and out as well.

And Rogers’s son Bennett had his 1987 Range Rover there. It was having idling problems and just generally not running well. He has nearly replaced the entire ignition system in his quest to get her running well. He mentioned his air idler valve and how he had replaced it. But he was still having idle issues.

So I asked him if he cleaned the seat for the valve? He had not. So we broke out a shop towel and a Phillips head screwdriver and got it cleaned. Immediate positive results. That is how auto repairs are supposed to work. He did have a bit of a knock from the engine. I’m hoping its just bad gasoline and not something more serious.

Bennett has been doing a bang up job getting his Range Rover running. He still has quite a few projects, like most Rovers of that age and use. Like mine, he will have to repair the air conditioning system before the heat of summer makes driving an un-air conditioned car unpleasant. And a new exhaust would be a good idea as well.

JagGuy’s stepson’s Range Rover is down as well. This was formerly JagGuy’s Rangie and he gave it to Brent. It needs an alternator. It also needs some TLC but it is unlikely that Brent will be able to give it to the old girl. Like so many kids his age, cars are magic boxes with wheels that you get in and they take you places.

Only a few kids today know how their cars work, let alone work on them. I often wonder if I taught my kids enough about their cars. I know they claim to know more about how it works than I taught them. This is probably just a defense mechanism, as they don’t want their dad telling them boring stories about how cars work and how to work on them.

I was talking to a young kid just the other day about the usefulness of good old fashioned bailing wire. My youngest daughter listened for about 30 seconds, and mid sentence she said, “Fascinating, truly fascinating dad.” and got up and walked out of the room.

When I was a kid in Newcastle Oklahoma, bailing wire was a very plentiful resource. And considering the amount of farms in the area you could likely pick some up at just about anyone’s house if you needed it. Back to my story, I was telling the young man who was no stranger to bailing wire himself, that the first thing I did when I got my 1973 Ford Maverick Grabber was go to the barn and get a length of bailing wire. I rapped it around the leaf spring in the back of the car. That way I knew where it was just in case.

I’ve used bailing wire to hold up an exhaust, hold parts that were falling off, wire a hood (bonnet) shut. One time when I had a problem and was out of bailing wire I walked over to an old farm truck parked in the T.G.&Y. parking lot and helped myself to some bailing wire he had tossed in the pickup bed. And in one extreme example I used bailing wire to hold up a steering control arm when the tie rod failed. In the example of the exhaust, I never replaced the exhaust hangers. I just crawled under and wired the exhaust up more permanently, with, you guessed it, bailing wire.

With the invention of zip ties you have seen a decline in bailing wire use. Zip ties are almost “acceptable” as a solution for repairs. You have read on this site of my famous use of zip ties to hold the plug on to the back of the ignition lock tumbler.

You are also probably familiar with duct tape. The military even has a special name for the tape as it is often referred to as “hundred mile an hour tape”. When we invaded Panama to stop drug trafficing in 1984 newly delivered Blackhawk helicopters had composite rotor blades. Those blades began to separate in the extreme humidity of Central America. Our creative mechanics wrapped 100 mile an hour tape around them to keep them together.

These on-the-fly-solutions could seem a bit “redneck” to uninitiated. But check any automotive message board and do a search for bailing wire. I can almost assure you a reference to it will be found. These seat of the pants type of repairs are becoming a lost art.

Thanks for reading and Happy Rovering.