Tag: rust

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Floor Pan Repair on a Range Rover Classic: Part 2 (Post #681) 12/2/2024

I hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving.

I am back working on the floor bed in this episode. The bottom half of the bed had not had the surface rust ground down. So I turned to and got some grinding done.

I used the wire wheel to get started. There is some use of factory seam sealer. I can’t imagine what the factory was thinking. There is nothing to “seal” on the underside of the truck in the places this was used. Now that I am adding new sides…there is definitely some seams to seal.

Everything will be covered in paint. When the welds get applied there will be some gaps between the new Z bar and the old bed. I’m thinking seam sealer will be helpful to keep water out. I’m also thinking of some sort of wax I could heat up and pour in the gap. I’ll do some additional research but this has possibilities.

I get all the rust off. I also used the sanding disk on some of the more pitted rust. That seemed to work pretty good. These sanding disks are expensive in my opinion. They still might be worth it but I’m not sure.

That’s about it for this week. Next week I’ll be fitting the Z bar and making sure everything will fit in the gaps.

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Thanks for reading and Happy Rovering.

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Diagnosing Parasitic Draw on a Range Rover Classic: Part 2 (Post #679) 11/18/2024

The Grounding.

Let the grounding begin!

When adversity strikes, that’s when you have to be the most calm. Take a step back, stay strong, stay grounded and press on. – LL Cool J

Authority is supposedly grounded in wisdom, but I could see from a very early age that authority was only a system of control. – Joe Strummer, The Clash

I’m quite grounded. – Enrique Iglesias

Like Enrique…the Big White Bus is now very well grounded. In this installment I install the grounding cables from the battery to the body and the frame. Very important things to have grounded.

The driver’s side is well grounded too. Those ground points to support the ignition system and the engine being grounded to the body. They are lovely.

The passenger side, I couldn’t say that before I finished this job. The ground points probably had not been removed and freshened up since it was wrecked by the previous owner some time in 2000.

The job was not difficult. I got side tracked with a bunch of rust and that removal made this video creep over the coveted 24 minute mark. I actually don’t know what the best length of video is. If you have a sweet spot, comment and let me know.

Three points in this job were the control module for the electric fans. The body which you connect to the fender. And finally the frame connection just behind the recovery points on the front of the frame.

All it took was a little wire wheeling with the Dremel. Cleaning he frame connector. I used a little dielectric grease between the metals. I have no fantasy that this grease will still be there even a year from now.

I found some rust and I knocked that out with some wire wheeling and applying the rust encapsulating paint. Maybe if the painting gods smile that will help keep the rust away.

That’s about it for this week. Like and subscribe and I look forward to your feedback.

Thanks for readying and Happy Rovering.



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Floor Pan Repair on a Range Rover Classic (Post #676) 10/20/2024

In this installment I start getting the rust sorted out for the installation of the floor pan. The cross members have quite a lot of rust on them. I used the wire wheel, a flappy sandpaper disk, and even a cutting disk to remove the rust.

The removal went pretty well. It took a few hours. The lip of the floor where the panel was cut out required wire wheel work as well. This was just a LOT of grinding.

I decided to setup and use my sandblasting cabinet. With the new air compressor it worked great. I was really pleased with the result. So much so that I’ll be building a rolling base for it. That way I can store it when I’m not using it and pull it out to make it more convenient. The lamp inside the cabinet has seen better days so I bought a cheap under cabinet lamp that I will install.

At the beginning of the video I briefly reinforce that I still have a parasitic draw. I’m going to experiment with some solution. One, isolating the alternator. I’m still fairly convinced that the alternator’s diode pack has failed. It’s happened before.

Second, I’m going to test for the draw using the “Pull One Fuse While Watching an Amp Meter” method. It takes forever (30 minutes) but should show what’s going on.

There will be a whole video for that.

Thanks for reading, like and subscribe, and as always Happy Rovering.

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Prep, Plan, Re-organize Range Rover Classic, Floor Bed Repair (Post #674) 10/4/2024

This post and video are ALL OVER THE PLACE.

I got so distracted when I went out into the shop this weekend. My frustration with the disorganization finally got to me. I reorganized the workbench. I moved the screws and bolts. I re-ordered some shelves. Reorganized the yard tools. It was a busy weekend.

I also talk about a new project to built a jerry can holder for two jerry cans. I have most of a 4×8 sheet of 16gauge sheet just taking up room. I think I can make a template and cut out a jerry can holder from the sheet. This would accomplish two things:

  1. Take care of a need to store stuff on the Range Rover Classic when I’m out.
  2. Get most of the sheet steel cut down to a manageable size.

It’s a win win for me.

I also want to make something from the two ancient jerry cans I found in the old shed before I tore it down. They are pretty crusty inside so they are only going to be good for a project like one of these….

I actually want to make a storage for my recovery gear. So that will be awesome if I can make that be as cool as it sounds.

The Big White Bus showed me it still has an issue with either/and/or the battery and alternator. While running her to prevent the varnishing issues she just died. Turned out to be a dead battery. So either the alternator is not charging the battery, or the battery won’t hold a charge. I’m pretty sure its the first. I will be getting a new alternator via warranty. It will be my 7th replacement from NAPA. I think I’ll also look for a NEW alternator with a similar lifetime warranty.

That’s about it. Told ya this post was all over the place.

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https://youtu.be/JxiPtaaCecc
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Upper Tailgate Repair on a Range Rover Classic, Part 3 (Post #673) 9/29/2024

In this post I finish up the upper tailgate repair. I finished up all the rust removal and put the frame back on.

This went “good”, I guess. I broke one bolt on the passenger side latch mechanism. I didn’t finish the seal. There were two holes that the rivets would not work in. I tried to tap them for a 10/32 bolt. I need to but the bolts and see if my tapping worked.

I tested the latch but it didn’t work super great. So I have some more work to do to get that adjusted again. It was working perfectly before I took it apart. So it may need more adjusting.

I took a few minutes to investigate where my backup camera will need to be mounted. I’ll have to experiment more once the head unit is installed. I only get one shot at drilling and installing. I gotta make it count.

I didn’t get to finish the job this weekend. One, the tapped screws did not get bought. Two, we had torrential rains happen today. At one point the rain was falling at 2 inches an hour. It slowed down some and in the end we got 5 inches of rain in 6 hours. It’s still sprinkling. This will break the drought we were under.

Next week I’ll wrap up the tailgate probably off camera. Next project is the rear floor. I still haven’t sorted out how I’ll get the rust off. So that’s the research I need to do this week.

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Thanks for reading, and watching, and Happy Rovering.

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Upper Tailgate Repair on a Range Rover Classic, Part 2 (Post #672) 9/22/2024

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In this video I continue to refurbish the upper tailgate frame. It’s crusty. I ordered some 30 inch wire bottle brushes to attempt to get the rust out of the frame.

They worked great. I ordered them from Justman Brushes. Made in America too!! I eventually nipped the ring off of one and inserted it into my drill. This was pretty clever of me if I do say so myself.

Once I got as much of the rust out as I thought I could get, I moved to get the paint in there. It did occur to me that I could have dipped the frame in sulfuric acid. But I would have had to start all over and in the end, I still had to rely on the paint pouring to coat the interior.

I will still have to lightly sand the frame to even up the paint. The rust preventative paint is some very thick stuff.

At the end of the video I go on a rant that I liken never finishing the Range Rover Classic to Shipwright’s Disease. I posted on this previously back in 2022. You can see that by clicking the link Shipwright’s Disease [Okierover].

Read Tailgate Repair Part 1 here….

Carry on to Part 3…

Thanks for listening to me whine, like and subscribe, and Happy Rovering.

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