I didn’t work on the Classic this weekend. I wanted to…but I just didn’t have the time. I had time to talk about her. I showed my progress to two of my friends. My neighbors asked me if I was going to work on her this weekend. But I told them I could not.
Even though I did not climb underneath her and get greasy grimy I have worked out the sequence of events that will lead to the Classic being completed. There are two sets of tasks that will lead to the Classic being back on the road. There are the MUST DO tasks that present road blocks to driving her. And there are NEED TO DO tasks. These are less critical but necessary if I am to claim victory over this round of restoration projects.
This is the MUST DO list in the order these tasks must be done.
- Finish the front brake disc replacement
- Replace the brake fluid reservoir
- Bleed brakes
- Replace the axle shaft seals (not ordered yet)
- Pack bearings, drain and refill front differential
- Replace the viscous coupling
- Paint and reassemble the tail gate
- Apply badging
- Make the replacement floor panels
- Weld panels
- Seal panels inside (painting) and outside (yet to be determined sealant)
- Install sound deadening material
- I have the kit and have started to install it. I need to finish the install and get the Rover under control from weaving and
- Take Range Rover to transmission shop and have them assess the damage and repair
- Replace tires all the way around with a new set of Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo II’s. Which I am pleased to report they still make. My best friend Retired Poster Marine purchased set not a month ago.
- I have to have the windshield removed and seal fixed. The water coming in is mostly from the top and not through the bottom of the floor. I’m hoping it can be sealed and that we don’t find any rust on the metal under the seal. This should eliminate or seriously limit the water that is causing the rust issue on my floor boards.
I also have a list of repairs that I should do while the Classic is in its various states of disassembly. Several of these repairs are not at all necessary but merely cosmetic. Some are luxuries that if I want Mrs. OkieRover to ride with me, I’ll have to fix This is the NEED TO DO list starting with…
- I need to completely recondition the AC (again). My daughter ran the AC without coolant from an undetermined leak and thusly the compressor is dead. I need a new compressor, dryer, and valve (which I have already purchased) and it all needs to be installed. I think I’ll have a professional test the system and charge it after I get everything replaced.
- While I have the carpets and head liner out I should take the opportunity to rewire the sound system. I haven’t determined what is broken with the system yet. I’m pretty sure the amp is not working. I’m also pretty sure that the subwoofer is not working. I have two bad speakers in the back as well.
- The headliner is showing signs of sagging again. My last repair is finally starting to show signs of needing a redo. I could also take the opportunity if I had the money to add some sound deadening material to the roof while the headliner is out.
- The sunroof mysterious stopped working. It will start to retract, but stops. I’m not sure what it is but while I have the headliner out I should probably investigate that problem and repair it if possible. I love the sunroof. I love driving around in the Fall with it open. But I don’t love it so much that I’ll spend a ton of money to fix it.
- I’d like to do this as well. I understand it will be around 200$(US) maybe as much as 300$(US). It gets hot in the Range Rover in Oklahoma and since I’ve converted the air conditioning to R134a it hasn’t cooled at the level it did before. Tinting the windows looks bad ass on a white car too.
- This system is completely failed. The fob no longer locks the doors and the bouncing lock problem is back. Completely pulling out the old and replacing with another system will be expensive. I have sourced some replacement actuators that are reasonably priced. Sadly I lost the resource and will have to source them AGAIN. There was a write up on a blog that described how they wired around the relays that seem to fail but alas I’ll have to find that again as well as I failed to bookmark it the last time I read it.
Power Steering Hoses
- I have replace these hoses. The leaking, although a rust inhibitor is annoy as it has buggered up my driveway with a nasty oil spot. I will remove them and take them to a shop in OKC that makes custom hoses. I can get stainless steel braided hoses made for the same cost as those in the supply magazines.
New springs and shocks
- After I get the transmission and the tires paid off I will buy all new shocks and tires. I can get a bit of lift from a stiffer set of springs and the shocks are in their seventh (7th) year and should be replaced. I don’t think they’ve failed out right but I think they are on the way.