October 10th, 2002 (Post #7)

October 10, 2002
Well, leave it to Lucas to give you fits when you least expect it. I was at the Home Depot (no I don’t live there) last night and when I pressed the key fob to lock the doors I heard the locks lock, the single honk, the lights flashed and then I heard the lock, unlock. I said “What the…” and pressed it again. I got the double honk unlock sound but no lock sound. So I walked back over to the truck and pressed it again. Again it unlocked after it locked. It did this again today at lunch. You can engage the locks manually with the key, so I did. If you are not aware of it, your truck will unlock the locks if you press your key fob when one of the doors is open. Thus preventing you from locking your keys in the car. So I’m guessing one of the sensors for this is failing. But with the Seattle-like mist wet of the past three days I am guessing this is a “wet somewhere problem”. Where to look I don’t know.
More on this if I find the culprit.

October 4th, 2002 (Post #6)

October 4, 2002
One of my fog lamps has a broken bracket. I noticed it just siting in the cowling not attached. I cut it loose and will have to get a new bracket to hold it in the cowling. I am going to get new head lights too. The stock lamps that are there now are terrible. My Hella 500s are awesome and when you compare the great light they cast and the light from the head lamps there is much room for improvement. I may try to get my Germany connection to send me some Hella Vision Plus head lamps. They are usually quite a bit less than the catalog prices.

I had a great discussion with The Ditchfinder about brake fluid yesterday. He said it should be changed every two years. I have never in my life changed brake fluid in any car or truck. My dad had some great rules to life when he was alive. “If it works don’t fix it.”, is one I know many of you have heard. My brakes work, but I know my truck with 116k miles has never had fresh brake fluid. So I may have him come over for some Pernod and have him help me change the fluid. He claims it is a 20 minute two man job. We shall see.

September 21-22nd, 2002 (Post #5)

September 21-22, 2002

Time to swap the nasty old pads with the new. Not too many tools necessary for this project. Needle nose pliars, flat head screwdriver, wheel chock (two each), jack stand, crate (milk, metal, one each) jack (hydraulic, one each), assistant (female, young, one each). For the assistant I employed my handy-dandy super-bestest daughter RovErica (11 years). She knows just enough to fetch stuff if I tell her where it is. She will primarily fetch drinks for dear ole dad and turn the water on and off
between each wheel for this project.

Erica fetched the jack stand and the milk crate. The milk crate is an often under appreciated item when working in the wheel area of the Rangie. I sit on it so I don’t have to stoop. Got the jack stand under the truck and put the wheel chocks in place. I broke the lug nuts loose with the tire still down. I proceeded to jack the truck up and set the stand in place for safety purposes. With the wheel off I used the garden hose to knock some of the brake dust loose. Maybe a power washer would have been very usable right now. Use number three for a power washer. (#1 clean paint off house, #2 clean cars)

I noticed that there is not a pad wear sensor on the left front. So I will for go putting that on for that side. I will have to look again to make sure the wiring is not really there. I removed the cotter pins from the keeper shafts (names may vary). Pulled out shafts and inspected the pads. Yes quite worn. I took the cap off of the brake fluid reservoir. This is to allow the fluid in the cylinders to flow back up.
I checked this with a few before. I got two major responses, bleed fluid and push fluid back. I don’t like opening my brake system at all so I went with the push fluid back method.

I inserted the flat head screwdriver into a convienient place to push the pad away from the disk to make way for the new very much thicker pads. You have to becareful here. There are two cylinders and I was careful to press them back together a little at a time. I took out the old pads and inserted the new pads. I put the new keeper shafts and retainer coil springs back in and secured them with the new cotter pins. Simple. Wash, rinse, repeat.

The back pads are slightly different. They are held in place with a very large cotter pin instead of a keeper shaft like in front and the anti-rattle spring is different. The back took only 15 minutes to complete both sides. It took longer to jack up the vehicle.

I rate this job a 1 on the 5 point difficulty scale.

September 19th, 2002 (Post #4)

September 19th, 2002
I just finished the entire diary (took me 3 days reading) for the
guys and their trek around the Americas in their Ex-British Marine 109. If you haven’t checked them out, do. They are on the adventure of a lifetime. They have been on the continent for over a year, touring in their truck. I don’t know if I could do that trip but it looks like fun. Their Ex-British 109 is
very interesting and oh man do I want one. My next vehicle will be one of these trucks. Maybe a four door.
I know I can’t afford the Defender 110 NAS. Their owners are very proud of them. But I could get one of the more spartan vehicles the are EX-MOD. There are a few importers out there.Dude, your getting a Series.

Badges we don’t need no stinking badges….

Actually I think having badges would be cool. I have been poking around the internet and found some links to badges. There are just about a million different badges. Everything type of design you could think of is out there. What would we have on our badges? It’s Oklahoma, maybe a representation of Oklahoma. I was thinking of a cartoon caricature of a Scissor-tail Flycatcher behind the wheel of a Rover like the South Carolina Rover Club, they have a Gator. We could go more “high brow” and have a badge like some of the MG clubs. Maybe the shield from the Oklahoma State flag as the background with some lettering. Think about it. Your input will certainly be required.

Here’s a link with some examples.

Car Badges from Around the World

Thanks for reading and Happy Rovering.

September 18th, 2002 (Post #3)

September 18th, 2002
The brake wear indicator has been flickering for about 2 weeks. This last week it has been on more than off, so it’s time to order brake pads and get them installed. Ordered brake pads from Atlantic British. I asked a few people
their advice and I went with “Get the OEM pads.” Lifetime pads are not all they are cracked up to be.
I’m waiting now for their much anticipated arrival.

September 17, 2002 (Post #2)

September 17th, 2002
The Ditchfinder has once again at lunch lead me to Home Depot. But this time I am thinking about Cupholders! I have pondered the cupholder problem many years now. Many thoughts have come up. Where do you place them? How do you mount them? What are they to be made of? Why doesn’t Magic Shell setup when applied to human skin?The obvious answers always escape us when we need them. With this in mind I ask the infinitely wise Ditchfinder, “What do you think?” Ten minutes later and ten Land Rover cutdowns endured, he suggests mounting them to the seat. To the seat? Is he insane?

Humm, does the crazy Ditchfinder have the perfect solution? Look at your Rover. Not many places to mount a cup holder with the current design of the cockpit. The area near the shifters is the only logical place. But my leg rests there when I drive. Adjust the leg placement? No way.

As much as I hate to admit it I think he has something in this crazy thought. I purchased two 3 inch end caps for a pvc pipe. I went home and showed my wife the crazy German Superhero’s idea. She said, “…just weld it on there.” I told her if this was a Series truck that would be in the true spirit of adapting the vehicle to my needs. “No, they must be Burled Mediteranean Poplar and look great! That’s leather your sitting on don’t ya know.” I climbed down from my soap box and thought about it more. I took my lovely naive wife to Home Depot and bought one 3 foot long piece of flat iron. I shall shape it and mount the cap on it in the perfect place.

I bent the bar and experimented with the location. I think I have the perfect location. Now how to mount it? The seat position switch has two well place and reasonably accessable screws. I shall mount it there. The next day I was back at the hardware store to match the bolts used with longer ones to accomodate my iron bar. Back at the house and some more bending and drilling and there it is. Wow, That’s the perfect location. It’s not in the way of the shifters. Wow, I can still use the parking brake. Wow, the seat can move still be in all the positions.

Wow, I think I’ve got it. Hummm. That looks like crap. I told myself it is only an experiment. I will test the location for a week or so as I contemplate how I will change it to fit the interior and make it more asthetically pleasing.